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Many people feel compelled to ride the waves and
are ever searching for the largest, most
exciting ride of their lives. The act of riding
waves with a wooden board began over three
thousand years ago in Western Polynesia. Some of
the first “surfers” were fishermen who used this
method to reach the shoreline quickly.
Eventually, surfing evolved as a sport. During
the nineteenth century, it became very popular
in Hawaii. Then in the early 1900s, an Olympic
swimmer named Duke Kahanamoku started a surf
club on Waikiki Beach. He is considered the
inventor of modern surfing, and also popularly
known as “The Big Kahuna.” Surfing interest grew on the
West Coast of the United States, particularly in
California. The original wooden boards gave way to fiberglass, resin and
Styrofoam styles, much lighter and easier to
maneuver. Fins were added on the underside of
the surfboard which helped in turning and
cutting through the waves. By the 1950s, surfing
was in its prime driven by more prosperity,
leisure time, and Hollywood beach movies.
Surfing became a phenomenon, a lifestyle, a
multi-million dollar industry. While surfing is
still extremely popular in California, Hawaii is
considered by many to be the surfer’s mecca, and
the international surfing championships are held
there annually. Today, surfing is a career for
some and just exhilarating fun for others. Maybe
you should give it a try one day! |